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Ribs The generally rowdy, sports bar-type crowd at B.B. Wolf doesn't mind if you pick up the ribs with your hands. In fact, you may get a look if you try to use utensils. The ribs are rubbed with all manner of spices, drowned in barbecue sauce, and smoked until the meat tears effortlessly from the bones. MORE INFORMATION B.B. Wolf, 109 Brookline Ave., Boston. 617-247-2227. [Restaurant review, get directions]. Redbones, 55 Chester St., Somerville. 617-628-2200. [Get directions]. Sunset Grill, 130 Brighton Ave., Brighton. 617-254-1331. [Get directions]. Don't let the billiards-beer-and-baseball atmosphere fool you, this is the place for an old-fashion pig-out session. Try your ribs with a side of the restaurant's vaunted "wet fries" (French fries smothered in gravy), and we challenge you not to feel your arteries stiffen. While the Sunset Grill and Tavern in Brighton is better known for its nearly 500 varieties of beer, the pub also has some of the most delicious - and messiest - ribs around. Redbones in Davis Square is legendary for its ribs, but don't forget its Southern comfort food. The hush puppies and corn bread alone are worth the sometimes hour-plus wait. Of course, no meal is complete at Redbones without a taste of the deliciously sloppy "White Trash Sundae." Trailer park sold separately.

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