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Allston/Brighton
The Model Cafe

MORE INFORMATION
The Model Cafe

Location: 7 North Beacon St., Allston

Hours: Mon.-Sat., 11 a.m.-2 a.m.; Sun., 5 p.m.-2 a.m.; kitchen is closed after 9 p.m. Mon.-Sat. and closed all day Sun.

Phone: 617-254-9365.

Beers on tap: 4.

Food: Homestyle lunches and dinners, from spaghetti to pork chops to sandwiches.

Games: Pool, darts.

Best sign: A Coke ad, a relic from the North Beacon Lunch days.

You say tomato... While most people pronounce it the MOD-el cafe, a significant minority calls it Moe-DEL. "The BC boys used to bring their girlfriends and called it the Moe-DEL because it sounded like a French cafe," says Dorothy Anthony.

Get directions

Don't let the name fool you. The models here are trains on display behind the bar. Opened in 1929 as the North Beacon Lunch (Prohibition was in effect) by the father-in-law of owner Dorothy Anthony, it was converted to the Model Cafe in 1942. Anthony's twin sons, Bill and George, run the bar today.

Maroon faux-leather booths and simple round barstools give the place a '50s-ish, Jack Nicholson-in-"Chinatown" kind of feel. The walls are adorned with an unusual mix of kitschy dog paintings dulled by years of cigarette smoke, and new works by local artists. The dim lighting seems an afterthought.

If you haven't already figured it out, the Model is all about atmosphere. Around 10 p.m., older locals give way to hip, art-student types who take advantage of what many believe is the best jukebox in town. It has something for everyone - Carl Perkins, Funkadelic, Sinatra, Hole - and at three selections for a dollar is rarely silent.


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