Good choices: Buttermilk fried chicken livers; cumin, lime and chicken tamales; Szechuan glazed monkfish; skirt steak; salmon fillet with green olive tapenade; banana cream pie.
Hours: Dinner: Tuesday-Thursday, 5:30-10 p.m., Friday-Saturday, 5:30-10:30 p.m.; Sunday, 5-9 p.m.; Sunday brunch, 11:30 a.m.- 4 p.m. Thursday-Saturday, limited menu, until midnight.
Reservations for parties of five or more. Smoking in bar area only.
Credit cards: American Express, Visa, MasterCard, Diners.
Access: Fully accessible.
TREMONT 647
647 Tremont St., South End, Boston
(617) 266-4600
Restaurant reviewed 3/20/97 by Alison Arnett
Once high school buddies started rock bands, and then for a couple of
decades, they started software companies. Now opening restaurants seems to be
the gig for boyhood friends.
In the case of chef Andy Husbands and Chris Hart, it was a lucky trend.
In late December, after an enviable blizzard of pre-opening publicity,
including an in-depth story in Boston Magazine detailing the creation,
financing and actualization, Tremont 647 opened its doors. For Husbands and
Hart, who grew up together in Needham, it was a dream realized, even though
both are the tender age of 27.
And now several months into it, in the midst of a swirl of restaurant
openings and heightened competition comes the tricky part -- running the
place night by night. Located several blocks down from the restaurant row area
of the South End, it's a surprise to see Tremont 647 warm-lit windows at the
end of a block almost completely under construction. But possibly because the
small place is a little off the beaten track, the restaurant feels like an
oasis, fitting the neighborhood concept admirably.
One can feel the energy and see the style upon entering the wood-lined
vestibule. The interior is soothing, attractive and soft-edged without being
overdone, a backdrop for the food rather than a statement itself. There's a
smooth and soothing sense of good manners and quick timing about the service
from the seating through the serving. And the food can be dazzling.
Tremont 674 has the most open of open kitchens and those sitting close
enough can choreograph the meal as the chefs say things like "Fire up the No.
2 pan'' and such. It's heady, making one feel part of the action, but also a
little overwhelming in aromas. Not to mention that one's clothes bring those
smells of grilling and sauteeing home. I'm sure the partners have spent money
and energy on ventilation but even more is called for here.
In his former stint as chef of East Coast Grill, Husbands was known for
strong flavors. His current dishes are certainly assertive, the finished
product is more polished than one might have expected from his early days. The
menu ranges across the globe, but although I love the Southwestern /New
Mexican influences, the Southern touches and the Asian-inspired fish plates
showed the most passion.
To be sure, Husbands, who spent some time last year working on an organic
farm near Santa Fe, is true to beans, which he calls "the perfect thing.''
The shelves over the kitchen hold big jars of various dried beans, from
appaloosa to osha root-infused red beans to the adorable black and white
calypso beans. They're more than just decoration, though; not only do many of
the dishes contain beans, there's a whole menu section on beans and rice.
A cumin, lime and chicken tamale with New Mexican chile sauce and
appaloosa beans showed off the creamy texture of the black and white spotted
beans and the slightly gritty contrast of the tamale's cornmeal. Although the
chicken was tender and the citrusy kick of the cumin and lime pleasant, one
wished for more oomph in the chile sauce to kick the background into action.
The slow-cooked and then grilled New Mexican chicken had the same virtues and
faults. The chicken itself was crisp-skinned but very moist and plump and the
grilled tortilla great (but then I'm a sucker for tortillas). But the whole
dish needed more fire to tie together the accompanying rice red beans flavored
with a hint of earthy osha root. Cabbage slaw zinged with lime substitute
helped to boost the flavors somewhat.
Two of the best flavor combinations were Southern-influenced appetizers.
Buttermilk-fried chicken livers were savory and tender, spiked with smoked ham
hocks and well-stewed collard greens. And morsels of chicken, also fried in
buttermilk after being dipped in a sticky orange glaze, were wonderful along
with the bitter tones of an arugula salad.
At times, though, the current craze of wilted or warm greens got
monotonous. Wilted and rather soggy frisee underpinned a very expertly grilled
fillet of salmon with green olive tapenade. Extra bitter broccoli rabe
threatened to overpower grilled duck breast over pappardelle sprinkled with
thick-cut bacon. A three-mushroom pizza needed a crisper crust the night we
tried it, but the mound of salad greens in the midst of big clumps of
portobello, porcini and other mushrooms made the concoction messy to eat and
the tastes difficult to decipher.
However, as in many new spots, the stronger and simpler the intent of the
dishes, the better. Grilled skirt steak was beautifully done, hearty in flavor
with just a film of thyme-blessed sauce. Tater tots rich with fontina cheese
seemed an odd throwback, but then again the quest for a mashed potato
substitute lives on.
Best, though, was a major flavor statement in a Szechuan-glazed and then
grilled monkfish. The sweet and spicy tones were perfect with the strong fish;
plenty of bok choy, carrots, celery and gingery broth made the soup plate
sumptuous and petite shrimp-filled dumplings added grace notes.
Tremont 647's wine list, overseen by Hart, is almost completey American
with fairly reasonable prices and interesting selections. The wait staff is
able and willing to help and the wines are well-matched to the cuisine. The
restaurant, especially for a new establishment, was impressively efficient and
friendly, making the experience comfortable. The only drawback was that the
tables for four were too small. By the time four appetizer plates, a bountiful
basket of breads and wine glasses were set, it was out of the question to ask
for water, and even at that the server kept shuffling plates and glasses in
attempting to create a little more space.
Several desserts were memorable, especially a delightfully old-fashioned
banana cream pie with caramel brittle, and a soft-edged apple-rhubarb tart.
The more elaborate presentations, such as a mixed nut tart with so many nuts
and not enough filling as to be too chewy, were less pleasing after a meal of
many lively flavors.
Tremont 647 doesn't seem yet like a finished canvas but still a work in
progress. But the energy and talent are there. It will be fun to watch it
mature.
Tips & hits
