Beach, birds, and burgers

By Johnette Rodriguez, Globe Correspondent

WaterFire was first lighted to usher in the New Year of 1995 and returned to Providence as part of the International Sculpture Conference in 1996. It was such a hit that the City of Providence began to offer support in summer 1996, when there were a half-dozen WaterFire lightings and people from all over New England flocked to see what the fuss was about. Each lighting - approximately 12 from May through October - now costs $30,000, and funding comes from a wide range of private, corporate, and public support. The next lightings are Aug. 21 and 28, Sept. 25, and Oct. 9. For more information, call 401-272-3111 or visit www.waterfire.org. It is best to call ahead if the weather looks iffy because heavy, sustained rain will mean a cancellation.

Since visitors are an integral part of WaterFire - walking along both sides of the river, stopping to gaze at the fires, grabbing a snack from one of the many food vendors - it is important to know how to negotiate the city. There are public parking lots behind Citizens Bank, at the Convention Center parking garage, at the Department of Transportation on Smith Street (across from the State House) and up the hill at Meehan Auditorium, Brown University. From any of those locations, there is a 50-cent trolley that runs every 10-12 minutes until midnight and will drop you next to the river.

Traditional Rhode Island foods for sale include Del's lemonade, fried dough-boys (like large beignets) and pizza slices. But there are also carmelized, roasted nuts in small cone-shaped paper bags, barbecued chicken plates, stir-fry veggies-and-rice dishes, grilled sausages or hot dogs, popcorn, pretzels, ice cream, and French fries.

In Market Square and at Memorial Park, don't miss the street performers: from jugglers and yo-yo champs to fire-eaters and mimes.

But most of all, experience the fires. Walk along the half-mile riverwalk to the basin at Waterplace Park, ringed with bonfires. Take the pedestrian bridge to the southeastern side of the river and view them from the other side. This also avoids the gridlock in front of Cafe Nuovo, one of only two restaurants with a WaterFire view - the other is the Boathouse at Waterplace Park. Cross the street and linger at the double row of fires in front of the Rhode Island School of Design. Then walk to the ''wall'' of 12 bonfires in front of Memorial Park.

Hear the crackle of the pine, inhale the smell of cedar, watch the glow of oak. And let the music draw you into a meditative mood. Don't rush your visit to WaterFire. And don't just walk past. Find one place where you can sit for 20 minutes or so, long enough to soak in the ancient spirit of the fires and the modern spirit of a city that believed it could be reborn ... and made it happen.

This story ran on page M1 in the Sunday Boston Globe on August 15,1999.