By Jerry Morris, Globe Staff

One of the best ways to discover your backyard is by reading the 1999 Massachusetts Getaway Guide. For a free copy, call 800-447-MASS, ext. 300.

Sometimes it takes a move or a remodeling job to discover your own backyard. Although I'm a native Bostonian, it took my native New York wife to lead me to discover there is indeed life beyond Route 495.

For five years we explored and lived in Franklin County, some 80 miles west of Boston, discovering the scenic beauty, especially during foliage season; taking boat rides along the Connecticut River from the Northfield Mountain Recreation Center; wandering along Historic Deerfield's mile-long street (said to be one of the most beautiful in America) lined with 18th- and 19th- century homes; then heading down routes 5 and 10 to Yankee Candle (a sight to behold, it's said to be the world's largest candle shop and one of the state's top attractions); shopping in Greenfield with its classic and lively downtown; driving west on Route 2 past rocks with dinosaur tracks imbedded in them to Shelburne Falls for the beautiful Bridge of Flowers and million-year-old glacial potholes; then continuing along the Mohawk Trail (America's first scenic auto route) to Williamstown to visit the magnificent Sterling and Francine Clark Art Institute (413-458-9545) filled with more than 30 works of Renoir, Impressionists, Old Masters, and paintings by Homer, Sargent, Cassatt, and Remington.

We'd cap off the trip with a stay at The Orchards in Williamstown (413-458-9611), an inn that is both stately and welcoming. The rooms are large and accommodatingly comfortable. Many rooms overlook a delightful garden courtyard. English antiques are everywhere. The service and dining is superb. Many on the staff are from Scotland and Germany, and innkeeper Sayed Saleh, an impeccable Egyptian, has just added an unbelievable wine cellar.

The inn scene in Massachusetts is one of the commonwealth's delights we've come to appreciate only recently. With our getaway Cape home being remodeled, we've been forced to find other places to stay to avoid the mess at our place. This has led us to discover some of Cape Cod's best inns, all of which we highly recommend.. .

The Whalewalk Inn in Eastham (508-255-0617) has 12 wonderful rooms, some with fireplaces. Innkeepers Carolyn and Dick Smith are friendly and welcoming. The outdoor brick garden patio is a nice setting for breakfast in summer and fall.

The Captain's House Inn in Chatham (800-315-0782) is a stately Greek Revial house set behind an equally stately hedgerow. The main house is filed with antiques and four-poster beds. We stayed in the carriage house in a room with both a Jacuzzi and fireplace. Innkeepers are Jan and Dave McMaster.

The Wedgewood Inn in Yarmouthport (508-362-5157), along scenic Route 6A, is the quintessential New England inn. Built in 1812, it is a Greek Revival home with Federal accents. We dined in the main house, but stayed in the carriage house where the old and the new blend beautifully. Innkeepers are Gerrie and Milt Graham.

The Dan'l Webster Inn in the heart of Sandwich, the Cape's oldest town, is a full-service inn with many awards for its dining, accommodations (Mobil four-star), and wines. The 47-room inn is adding eight super deluxe rooms with fireplaces, oversized whirlpool baths, two-person showers, and ''Romeo and Juliet'' balconies. These rooms will be available in late June. In season there is an outdoor pool and gardens. The inn is just minutes from Heritage Plantation, a wonderful museum filled with Americana (even a classic carousel), antique cars, and gardens.

Now we've moved to Rhode Island and the backyard-discoveries fun begins again.

Published 05/02/99 in the Boston Suday Globe's Travel Section.