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 Millennium Icon: Hair

Long or short? Straight or curly? Dye it or bleach it? Fake or natural? Since ancient times, people have struggled with these hairsplitting issues.

400s to 1400s
Medieval Styles
During the Middle Ages, most men wear their hair to their shoulders. Priests and monks shave the crowns of their heads. Single women and girls leave their hair natural. Married women cover the head with a veil or hood. It is trendy for women to shave around the hairline to make the forehead look taller. The first public guild of barbers is created in France in 1301.

Pop Quiz!
Question: According to Greek mythology, anyone who looked at Medusa turned into ...
Answer: Stone

Medusa was one of the three Gorgons, the daughters of the sea god Phorcys in Greek mythology. She was beautiful, and so was her hair. But she boasted about it to Athena, who became jealous and turned her hair into writhing snakes and made her face hideous. Medusa had the power of turning all who looked at her into stone.

Early 1500s European Look England's King Henry VIII orders English men to wear short hair in imitation of French noblemen.

While the rest of European women wear head coverings, Italian women go outside bare-headed. So it is no surprise that the Renaissance Period started in Italy during the early 1300s, overlapping the end of the Middle Ages elsewhere.

Venetians start powdering the hair. Some women try the chignon, fashioned like a large roll at the back of the head. Others wear their hair in a braid down to the knees. The Venus style features thick strands stiffened with gold lacquer. Bangs are fashionable for men.

Italian artist Leonardo da Vinci paints the Mona Lisa. Looking naturally beautiful, the woman wears her hair loose and parted in the center.

1550s
Fashion Victims
England's Queen Elizabeth I owns at least 100 wigs. Most of them are reddish gold or saffron yellow. Soon enough, English noble women, men and even children wear wigs or dye their hair the same color. Particularly big hair is held in place with an expensive fixative called gum mucilage. Only the rich can afford it.

Some decorate their hair with expensive ornaments. This becomes an invitation for crime. Wig-snatching becomes a trend; some go so far as to cut a hole in the backs of carriages to grab wigs from women seated inside.

Early 1600s
Rulers Set Trends
The Manchus gain control of China in 1644. Chinese men are ordered, in a badge of submission, to shave their heads except for a long pigtail of braided hair trailing down the back. They wear it this way until the dynasty ends in 1912.

France's King Louis XIII goes bald in his early 20s. He wears a big white hairpiece. The French bourgeoisie help make wigs the rage.

Some men wear a side curl call a lovelock; it is longer than other curls and it is tied with a ribbon.

Pop Quiz!
Question: In the 1600s, those desiring a change in hair color would use ...
Answer: Alkaline, Lead, Elderberries

It's a minor miracle that people lived to tell how they bleached or dyed their hair.

Blonding was achieved by soaking hair in alkaline pastes and sitting in the sun. Lead derivatives also seemed to do the trick. These were among the noxious ingredients for bleach job: lye or lime, ceruse (a lead derivative), warm water, saffron or turmeric. The concoction was applied to the hair overnight, then chipped off the next day.

Some people blackened their hair by soaking it in a mix of elderberries and wine. A vegetable dye with radish extract helped turn the certain hair colors into auburn.

Late 1600s
Baldness Is No Problem
During the reign of France's King Louis XIV, male hairdressers multiply; many of them are hired to work in the king's palace. The king starts to go bald.

French wigmakers introduce the periwig -- a huge mop of curls that becomes customary headdress for men. It's a fashion hit, regardless of aesthetics and size or shape of the head. Wigs are uncomfortable and hot, so heads are shaved.

Early 1700s
Fashion Accessories
Toupees become fashionable. Some men mingle their own hair with the fake stuff. Hair powder remains in use in England until 1795, when the government imposes a tax.

Late 1700s
Big Hair Origins
Louis XVI's wife, Marie Antoinette, wears great plumes in her hair. Soon, women's hairdos become breeding grounds for accessories, such as butterflies, windmills, vegetables, birds and cardboard cutouts.

Eventually, hairstyles grow in height with the help of wire frames and cushions. Flowers, ribbons, pins, jewels and feathers help steady the coiffure -- sometimes as high as 2 feet. Doorways are enlarged to accommodate really big hair. After all this trouble, women hesitate to wash their hair for weeks.

Hairdressers go to the homes of the rich and famous to do their hair as well as gossip. Some stylists refer to themselves by their first names only.

In 1776, an English noblewoman dies of burns after her tall headdress goes up in flames from brushing the fire-lit wall sconces.

In 1789, discontent sweeps through France, leading to the French Revolution. Big hair and other luxuries subside.

Pop Quiz!
Question: In the 1700s, what ingredient went into hair gel?
Answer: Bear's grease, Pig fat, Beef marrow

Fancy hairdos required lots of time, so people definitely wanted to preserve them with pins, ribbons, laces and other ornaments. To help "fix" the 'do, they needed something gooey. Bear's grease and lard were particularly helpful in preserving a masterpiece.

Here are ingredients for one hairdresser's pomade: Beef marrow, hazelnut oil, essence of lemon.

It must be said that in those days, people did not bath frequently; some believed it was unhealthy. Imagine the smell of hair mixed with animal fat after a few days in a hot, summer sun. Fragrances, powder and flowers helped temper the odor problem.

1800s
New Age for Hair
Finally, in the late 1800s, hairdressing salons open for women. Before this, women summoned hairdressers or had servants do their hair at home.

In 1890, French hairdresser Alexandre F. Godefroy invents a hair dryer. His clients wear a bonnet that is attached to the chimney pipe of a gas stove.

Men dress their hair with a brand of oil called Macassar oil. It is so pervasive that protective coverings, called antimacassars, are made for chairs and sofas.

In 1876, Sioux Indian Sitting Bull, wearing pigtails, leads a sun dance. He tells Indians they should learn how to fight to kill. This leads to the annihilation of Lieutenant Col. George Custer and his soldiers at the Battle of Little Bighorn on June 25, 1876.

1901
Feminine Ideal
In the United States, the Gibson Girl is popularized. Millions of women copy her soft, puffy hairstyle, created by American illustrator Charles Dana Gibson.

Ella Adelia Fletcher publishes a hair care guide, recommending that hair be washed once every two weeks. For shampoo, she suggests a well-beaten egg with an ounce of water rubbed thoroughly into the scalp. A good conditioner is a mixture of petroleum jelly, castor oil, Gallic acid and oil of lavender.

1906
Hair-Curling Stories
The permanent wave machine makes it debut. The electric contraption is poorly grounded and sometimes shocks the person in the chair. It requires use of chemicals, such as borax or ammonia, to break down the hair's structure. After enduring a 12-hour perming process, some people's hair is ruined by the electric waving rods. It costs hundreds of dollars for the special treatment.

Pop Quiz!
Question: In prehistoric times, people curled their hair with the help of ...
Answer: Clay, Beeswax, Mud

People had been skilled in curling hair since 1500 B.C. Egyptian slaves helped nobles set their hair by using a fire-heated bar. Others tried twisting hair around metal rods and coating the roll with beeswax. In Egypt and other parts of Africa, people wound their hair on sticks and caked them with mud, hemp or clay. After drying in the sun, they would break apart the pieces, leaving hair resembling dreadlocks.

1920s
New Waves
Hand-held hair dryer is introduced.

"Patent-leather hair" becomes popular for men. They slick it down with oil the way the movie star Rudolph Valentino does.

Parisians fall in love with Josephine Baker's hair. A French hair product company makes her its model.

Silent film star Louise Brooks "liberates" women in America and Europe and embodies the Jazz Age by sporting a shiny, black bob. Men are shocked by this act of defiance. The Catholic Church is not amused -- it objects to the bob. A Chicago department store refuses to hire women wearing the bob. "Bobbed hair leads to divorce," cried newspaper headlines.

The geisha tradition, which began in the early 1700s in Kyoto, Japan, is in its golden days. To look absolutely beautiful, the "perfect hostess" must undergo an ordeal to get her hair oiled, waxed and shaped into an elaborate, knotted hairstyle. To preserve the hairdo for a week, she must learn to sleep with hard cradles underneath the neck so her hair remains suspended in the air.

1930
Faster & Cheaper With Chemicals
A "cold wave" is developed. It is a permanent wave process that does not require heat. It takes only two hours to "permanently" curl hair and costs only a few dollars.

1940
Celebrity Style
Actress Veronica Lake wears her hair long and wavy and covering one eye.

1950s
Thanks Vidal
Actresses such as Marilyn Monroe, Anita Ekberg and Jean Harlow popularize the platinum look. They subject their hair to industrial-strength bleach jobs. Famed hairdresser Vidal Sassoon, would later recall that "we used to make these diabolical bleaches, mixing 20-volume peroxide in a bowl with three drops of ammonia. I had to add the drops, the number had to be exact, and I was terrified my hand would shake -- it was as primitive as that."

Crew cuts and ducktails are popular with men.

Bouffant hairdos are considered stylish in the late 1950s and early 1960s. To get good height, women teased their hair, or backcombed it toward the scalp into a knotted mess.

1963
Back to the Future
Vidal Sassoon, who had started his career in London, re-introduces the bob.

1964
Can't Live Without It
Hairspray surpasses lipstick as the No. 1-selling beauty aid. To preserve their hairdos, some women sleep with their heads wrapped in toilet paper. Others wear a scarf to cover their curlers -- even outside while running errands.

A British band known as the Beatles starts a whirlwind U.S. tour sporting cool haircuts. Young men are quick to copy their long bangs, and conservatives are quick to denounce the radical style.

Late 1960s
Groovy Baby
Counterculture, civil rights and the women's liberation movement change the look of heads in America. Guitarist and rock sensation Jimi Hendrix headlines at Woodstock, N.Y., in 1969 with big natural hair. Many African-American women scorn chemical hair relaxants and let their hair go natural with Afros.

Bob Marley not only brings reggae music from Jamaica to America but also Rastafarian dreadlocks.

1970s
Whatever
Unisex hairstyles are fashionable. Long, short, bushy, straight, whatever. Men and women copy each other.

1980s
Punked Out
Punks proudly display shocking colors, such as magenta and chartreuse. They shave their heads, except for swatches of glued spikes. The look is called a mohawk. Hair companies rush to cash in on the craze by manufacturing glue substitutes, such as gels and other less permanent fixatives.

1990s
Anything Goes
Hair extensions, dreadlocks and braids become popular. Pro basketball forward Dennis Rodman becomes more famous for his hair than his athleticism on the court.

In Japan, young people find it's cool to perm the hair to emulate African-Americans. Others go platinum.

Serena Williams wins the 1999 U.S. Open in New York wearing white beads in her hair.

Celebrities including Chicago Bulls' guard Michael Jordan and professional-wrestler-turned-Minnesota-governor Jesse Ventura make baldness fashionable.

Future of Hair
Color Me Beautiful: Both genders will have more options, more often throughout the day. Brunet at work, strawberry blond at night. There will be more hair-color choices as well, with men your father's age sporting celery-tinted crew cuts or teen-age girls reporting to yoga/levitation class in sky-blue pigtails.

Hair color will be made from a complex brew of natural ingredients -- ranging from concentrated vegetable dyes to lava rock -- that are good for you and the environment. The only remaining problem: getting beet juice stains out of white linen.

Silicone Heads: There will be less reliance on blow-drying, with more emphasis on allowing the hair to behave naturally, using an arsenal of advanced silicone-based grooming products that will redefine and mold the hair.

Hair Topiaries: Forget those baby butterfly barrettes and mall-rat banana clips. For big nights out, a variety of clamp-on hair "opiaries" will be available. Imagine a $1,950 free-form "waterfall" topiary from Tiffany & Co., or a $45.99 Mickey Mouse "ears" topiary, which, for a short time, will replace the "devil horns" topiary with the punk Goth crowd.

Computer Imaging: Thanks to cyberland, clients will be able to consult a computer screen to see what they would look like before they take the fateful plunge. Salon and client each will keep a CD-ROM of the client's hair history, recording dates, procedures performed and formulas, as well as digital photos of each look. Should a client visit another salon on a trip, she could take along her disc with her computerized records.

Precision Cuts, Premium Price: Fifty years from now, you'll be able to ask for a trim of 6.5 centimeters and get it to the micrometer, the result of a micro-chip-equipped comb that will accurately measure the amount of hair being pulled through it.

Highly specialized laser scissors will minimize human error. But these futuristic tools come at a price -- regular alloy, top-of-the-line scissors today can run $1,000 -- that will be reflected on the client's bill. Figure a minimum of $500 (the Supercuts price) for a cut, color and blow-dry. That's not including the mandatory 25 percent tip that will be added to your bill. If you forget your wallet, not to worry -- salons will have long instituted automatic withdrawal from your bank account.

Related Links
Editor's note: These links will take you to Web sites with content we do not control or endorse.

Top 10 Hairdos of History
http://www.charged.com/issue_2/leisure/stories/hair_dos/
Pick a hairdo and decide if you agree, from Charged

Art of Barbering
http://www.BarberPole.com/artof.htm
Do you know where the word "barber" comes from? Find out, from BarberPole.com

History of Dreadlocks
http://www.csd.uu.se/~d97hah/lockseng.html
There's much to say about tangled up hair, from Dreadlocks

Social Dimensions of Baldness
http://members.aol.com/hairbook/index.htm
Lots to know about hair and lack thereof, from Hair Loss Information Center

Virtual Salon
http://www.beautynet.com/hair/index.html
Get tips for how to manage your hair, from BeautyNet

Hair, There, Everywhere
http://www.geocities.com/RodeoDrive/3696/Glossary.html
Get a complete hair glossary, from Buzztown Barbershop

Sources
National Archives; Charles Cherney of Chicago Tribune/KRT; Craig Borck of Saint Paul Pioneer Press/KRT; Howard Simmons of New York Daily News/KRT

Credits
Producer: Lily Chin/KRT
Designer: Adam Mark/KRT
Photography: National Archives; Charles Cherney of Chicago Tribune/KRT; Crag Borck of Saint Paul Pioneer Press/KRT; Howard Simmons of New York Daily News/KRT; The Miami Herald/KRT

Copyright
Limitations on use of material in this Web package: This content is owned by Knight Ridder/Tribune Information Services and contains material that is derived in whole or in part from material supplied by KRT or its contributors. The entire Web package and all material in it are protected by international copyright and trademark laws. You may not copy, reproduce, republish, upload, post, transmit or distribute in any way any material from this Web package, including code and software without our permission.

KRT is a joint venture of Knight Ridder and the Tribune Co.

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