Lately at tony restaurants, we've been served dessert and some first courses in porcelain dishes. They're quite shallow, white, with fluted edges, originally made only in France, but now they are widely available and made in the Far East. The dishes often go by the name "creme brulee ramekins," named for the popular custard with its divine caramel top. They also hold individual tarts, quiches, and baked eggs, and arrive at the table set on a dessert plate lined with a napkin. The presentation is simple but striking. Williams-Sonoma carries Apilco brand, made in France, 3 1/2-inches across, $5.50 each. If creme brulee is too difficult to master, make a vanilla custard sauce and pour it over fresh fruit. Available at all Williams-Sonoma stores.

-- S.J.